By: Yashi Gudka
Succeeding the romantic lace, graphic design prints and statement sleeves encountered in London was Milan Fashion Week. This year the Spring Sumer 2016 collections definitely did not dissapoint. Due to the change in creative directors, many fashion houses are in a period of transition, the result being collections modified from their usual aesthetic. Some examples include Gucci, Emilio Pucci and Robero Cavalli. These changes have brought some fresh new designs, deviating from the brands’ signature styles.
Some notable trends in Milan include the adornment of clothes with embellishments, bands and stripes and maximalism. Milan Fashion Week has always embraced minimalism, where fabrics and cuts exude Milanese elegance. However, this season the change from minimalism to maximalism is evident in the mixing of colours, prints, embroidery, and embellishments, as well as layering of clothing. Some designers that embraced this new trend are Gucci, Dsquared2, Pucci, MSGM, Blumarine and Stella Jean. The classic, flirty and feminine Spring/Summer vibe was embodied in Etro and Alberta Ferreti. Structured silhouettes can be seen in many pieces from each collection however, they are most prevelant in Sportmax and Prada.
After viewing all the shows from Milan Fashion Week, we have rounded up a few of our favourites:
This show was classically feminine with a pink, coral and sandy palette; it also was comprised of flowy and lightweight garments. The collection was focused on a “determined form of grace” which was definitely reflected through the neck scarfs, tailored trousers and multiple flattering dress shapes.
Catering to the eccentric, powerful woman, Prada’s collection featured an abundace of skirt suits. There was heavy use of multicoloured stripes and styled neck nets. The color palette gave a vintage vibe, but the cuts and the way the pieces were put together was decidedly ultra-modern. Prada also didn’t disappoint with a complimenting line of fabulous accessories and fierce shoes.
Marco de Vincenzo:
This collection was by far most recognized for its play on texture through use of feather like pieces. Vincenzo included a lot of ombre and his transitions from different colors were smooth. The whole collection was one of the most coherent, as there was a clear and consistent oriental influence. Marco de Vincenzo upped the game at Milan Fashion Week and is definitely one to watch out for.
Under Alessandro Michele, Gucci has become almost unstoppable in the global fashion industry today. His theme was geek-chic and romantic, a departure from Gucci’s reputation for sex-appeal found during the tenure of Tom Ford. Red and green, the brand’s signature colors, and complex prints were used maximally and the craftmanship was impeccable as usual. All of these elements making this one of the best Gucci collections we have seen in a long time.
The whole theme of Donatella’s SS16 collection was to celebrate every woman regardless of their differences. It radiated an empowering message which was conveyed through the use of military inspired garments. Versace mentioned that this collection was about “mixing tailoring with sportswear and effortless glamour”. There was no shortage of short dresses, animal print and overall “boss sexiness”.
Milan Fashion Week is highly cultured by its heritage and thus dominated by the legendary fashion powerhouses like Gucci, Prada, Versace, Dolce and Gabbana and Cavalli. Spring/Summer 2016 showcased some of the best work we have seen from these labels in many years. Nevertheless, there are many up and coming designers that deserve to be recognized such as Marco de Vincenzo and No21.