By Stephanie Baladi
Sources: Vogue, Style.com, WWD
Last Tuesday, Viktor & Rolf announced they will present their last Ready-to-Wear collection for Fall/Winter 2015. After 14 years, the brand is now going to focus solely on couture and fragrances. Designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren explained that they “need to refocus on [their] artistic roots” and that the pair were starting to “feel creatively restricted”.
This announcement is eerily reminiscent of Jean Paul Gaultier’s announcement from last season to end his own Ready-to-Wear line to focus on high fashion because of RTW’s “commercial constraints”. It begs the question – who’s next? Are more designers becoming frustrated with the state of the industry right now? Are never-ending deadlines and competition among designers going to continue to drive key players away?
Jean-Jacques Picart, an industry consultant, expressed his opinions on the designers’ decisions calling it a “strange coincidence” saying that this proves “the rhythm and pressure of a worldwide fashion industry are too strong.” It seems near impossible “to keep a business alive without a profitable accessories and footwear division.”
Viktor & Rolf has always pushed the creative envelope and put on breath-taking runway shows –both Ready-to-Wear and Couture–especially in an industry that has felt especially uninspired the past few years. Their absence will not go unnoticed, but a silver lining to all of this is that the pair has more time to focus their energy into their couture line and shows which, if their past shows are any indication, are sure to be unforgettable.
While Viktor & Rolf plan on presenting their Fall/Winter 2015 collection this March, they have decided to pass up their usual spot on the Paris runway and they will be sorely missed.