By Yana Sybiga
Raf Simons for Dior is like a sip of fresh water for the thirsty. His modern approach to the brand’s heritage drew the company back to the peak of the fashion Olympus, after overcoming John Galliano’s hard leave. In the Fall/Winter 2014 women’s ready-to-wear collection, Simon’s declaration of love to bold minimalism, which has always been a signature style of his, was front and center.
In the show, everything was twisted up: classic bow jackets and coats were decorated with shoelaces of contrasting color. Dresses were wrapped up into asymmetric, bright colors and transparent, bejeweled dresses were worn upon oversized, white tank tops. Classical pointed pumps with colorful, rubber platforms resembled Legos. Black, pastel pink and gray Astrakhan fur coats with pink inserts were worn upon traditional two-pieces suits.
Even the timeless silhouette of the New Look dress was upgraded with shiny, puffed fabric, usually used for winter jackets and sports equipment. The color palette, which combined the most unexpected colors in one look, was as innovative as the designs. Fire rouge, pastel blue and black paired with neon pink and rich, vinous red – who would have thought these colors could be worn together?
With the reputation of a person who knows everything about the power of color, Simons always knew how to surprise the public while working for Jil Sander. With an adjustment in his style to fit the Dior image, he not only maintained the same excitement, but tripled it.