By Kelsey Zimmerer
Following on the heels of New York’s runway success, London played host to the fashion world’s tastemakers and trendsetters for London Fashion Week, where designers showed their Spring 2014 collections. The looks ran the gamut from structured to whimsical, bold and bright to ethereal, and everything in between. Florals were everywhere, as was British it-girl, Cara Delevingne. Here’s a quick list of my favorite shows from earlier this month.
Designer Christopher Bailey channeled a springtime English garden in the form of modern feminine silhouettes, delicate fabrics, floral motifs and pure pastel perfection. However, the collection strayed from being too proper with voluminous coats and exposed… underpants? It had just the right amount of sexy to balance the proper pencil skirts and buttoned-up collars.
For Emma Hill’s final collection as the brand’s creative director, she focused on magnified prints, cheery colors and mod shapes. The look was fresh and uncomplicated, often times monochromatic in black, white or red. Leather accents toughened up the collection in British cool-girl spirit. Most pieces were quilted, striped, floral, sheer or a combination of the lot. The best part? Either the adorable pup that accompanied a few of the models down the runway, or Hill’s lasting contribution to Mulberry: the chic briefcase-esque shoulder bag, Kensal.
Of course, when you think of spring designs, pastels and florals come to mind, as it did with many designers in LFW. But why use the traditional pattern when you could make a cut-out of a massive petal? Or, screw it; just write “flower” instead? Christopher Kane took floral to a new level with his academic take on a typical spring staple, bypassing the garden references and harnessing a science book’s diagram for photosynthesis instead.
Designer Giles Deacon’s collection was all over the place and I loved it. The first looks on the runway took a little time to get used to, but the graphic dresses and coats with blown up images of Glen Luchford’s photography (including Kate Moss’s face) went from out-there to wearable by the time his next big look came down the catwalk – and this is where he got me. A flurry of pink and purple pouts with a gap-toothed grin decorated playful gowns and babydoll dresses, a nod to 80’s and 90’s pop culture. Next, he switched gears to muted florals and nude feathers. The models were styled with a youthful side braid and Adidas trainers, adding a relaxed vibe to the show. However, he lost me with his closing looks of heavy black, satin dresses and massive headpieces.